Last week we spoke about surfers and their boards.
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This week I thought I would change it up a bit and look at how we ride our boards.
Our stance on a board is crucial to the quality of the wave we ride.
People say "You all surf", but we have a special DNA when viewed from the shoreline.
I am probably the most recognisable surfer in the morning because the others are always checking the foam in case I shoot out to shock them with a pop-up.
I am a bit slow but once I am up, the stance is normally arm tucked behind and flying down the line.
Looking back, "Croucher" in the 60s and 70s had the most unusual stance, whether in a tube, on top of the wave or the face of the wave, he would still crouch down. He had an addictive trait which he got from when we went from single fins to twin fins, he needed to change his fins every wave he caught. Normally he would change them four times within the hour.
Looking at current surfers, Gee's goofy foot style is very easy to spot, and you always get a good photo. While Cherie's dismount is like no other, Ninja/Micheal is easy to spot and sometimes his ride can look like a ballerina floating across the wave.
The most complete surfer with the best stance is Bobby, his attention to detail and class on waves look like a true professional surfer and he is easy to recognise.
Conditions this week
Winds will be S-SW about 15-20 knots over the weekend moving S-NW on Monday at 10-12 knots.
The swell should be good at 2-2.6 metres from the SE with a pause in between waves of about 15-20 seconds.
Water temperature will be steady at around 20 degrees with a slight drop from Monday onwards down to around 18 degrees.
Tides will be smaller with a high tide of 1.1-1.7 metres in the morning and low tide at 0.5-0.7 metres just after lunch.
The best conditions will be in the run-in tide and on the run-out just after full tide for a couple of hours.
Look forward to lots of rain over the weekend.
I feel sorry for the Ironmen and Ironwomen, competing on Sunday. Don't forget Town Beach carpark is closed on Sunday for the event.
Towns has good banks with lifesavers reporting sand moving to the back of the reef at the breakwall. Flynns Beach looks promising and have a look at Shelley's in front of the lagoon. While down south, Middle Rock looks good, Bonny Hills and Camden Haven are steady with good reports.
Just a little tip to finish, if you have just caught a wave, take a number, and go to the back of the queue so everyone can enjoy the waves.
Safe surfing all.
